Saturday 29 May 2010

Some things what I have been doing.

Well I guess I owe you all another blog nugget, or blogget. Despite the almost comically miserable weather, things are going rather well at the moment. I feel like I've really finally managed to completely settle in here. One month before I leave, naturally.

One of the many things that makes Austria a fine place to live is its position as the country with the second most national holidays in the world. This means that in May not only do we get Thursday off for the ascension of Christ, we also get a holiday for Pentecost too, only a week and a half later, and then a week and a half after that we get another Thursday off for a reason which I am not currently sure of. I think of it as 'Holy Thursday The Return' or something like that. My two day pentecost holiday combined with the department policy of not having lectures on fridays led to a sort of mini half term break last week. I spent a lot of time creating colourful A3 depictions of the regional geology of Austria, and I can I think happily say that I sort of understand the formation of 1/3 of the Alps. Which is a start. Inbetween the regional geology funtimes, I found a couple of opportunities to leave the house (during breaks in the incessant surprise thunderstorms).

The one and only WRN (currently firing lasers between space telescopes above the clouds on top of a volcano in the canaries, dammit) had informed me that right down the bottom of the Prater was a sort of reed filled nature reserve place, so I resolved to find it. I was very excited when I found the place, some old cut off arms of the Danube from before it was coralled into the rather dreary straight line channel that it occupies today. The place was FULL of wildlife. I was surprised by a Black Woodpecker hacking away at rotting wood only a few metres away, then minutes later I spotted my first of two probable water voles, and listened to a chorus of absurdly loud frogs. Oh and admired some mandarin ducks sitting calmly on the fallen logs. It was a beautiful spring evening, warm but not hot, smelling strongly of the flowers from the chestnut trees... I decided to extend my walk out of the Prater, however I took a wrong turn and ended up walking around in the outskirts of Vienna proper, past a huge power station. But this is Vienna and I was walking along a pleasant road with trees along each side in the sun, so I didn't mind so much. I eventually realised my mistake and made it back home, generating many delicious pictures.

That extended weekend also brought yet another trip to the Albertina, excellent as always, and a much needed but very boring shopping trip. Luckily, I didn't have to wait long until interesting things started happening again, on Thursday I had to go look around a flat for Ash. The owner was apologetic and said actually we couldn't go see the house today, but then invited me into his amazing first district appartment for a drink. He was an old ex dancer who had danced for 25 years at the Staatsoper, as well as many other places. He had even danced the Viennese waltz with the Princess of Kent, after which she tripped over and fell on him, meaning he got in ALL the papers, many on the front page. I mean I know this must have been in the 70s or so but still surely there was other stuff happening?? I sat round a table at which he had entertained Robert Redford and Meryl Streep of all people. Fascinating conversation, once I got over the initial confusion of someone being so nice to me.

Then yesterday it was the Lange Nacht der Kirchen, when most of the churches in Austria are open late till 12:00, with services, cakes/ other food, displays etc. The Stephansdom was lit up by an honest to goodness LASER DISPLAY shining through the incense smoke, backed up by a choir. Seriously, wow! I maintain that lasers are not inappropriate for the modern church, if people had been able to make heavenly laser displays back in the 16th Century there is no way they would have left them out! We went down into the crypt to gaze at the huge piles of bones and skulls, ossuary style but a little less artfully arranged. Plague victims, cardinals, it;s all down there. Apparently Mozart was probably in one of those piles, a far cry from his lovely and fake gravestone in the Zentralfriedhof. After that little memento mori we headed off to see the inside of the Orthodox Cathedral (amazing paintings, not a bit of wall blank) and passed through (somewhat surreally) an Anglican church where they were singing a mass in English. We then proceeded to the Museumsquartier for beer, just to balance out all the holiness. An excellent evening!

The city is still really busy as today and tomorrow are the Stadtfest, with stages and events happening all over the place. I'm off soon to check out some Balkan brass band in the Heldenplatz! I just hope it doesn't rain again....

Bis Bald, der Tom

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