Winzendorf - Bad Fischau

This hike took place at the end of a several week stretch of hot, hot days in Vienna, with temperatures above 35 degrees in the day and only getting down to 25 degrees even in the middle of the night. The day of the hike was supposed to be the day the heatwave finally broke, indeed in the higher mountains the forecast was for thick cloud and rain. It was decided to do a lower route, with the hope of striking the perfect balance between warm and cold. As it happened all we got was humid, but it was a lovely hike, with great views and some nice surprises.

The route (this time not chosen by me!) started out in the village of Winzendorf on the rail line to Puchberg am Schneeberg, primarily famous for its yearly 'Karl May Festspiele', where the famous (in german-speaking countries anyway) wild west adventure stories of the eponymous author Karl May are acted out. We headed rapidly up onto the low hills, affording us a great view over the Vienna basin and also our future route. In the distance was an exciting-looking castle ruin. After an hour or so's walk we descended into a valley between two hills and climbed steeply up the other side to reach this very ruin, on the Emmerberg.

The vast overgrown complex proved too enticing so we headed in and explored. This castle ruin is at least twice as large as several similar ruins I have encountered hiking elsewhere near Vienna, with substantial walls still standing and fantastic vine-choked masonry. Right at the back of the castle the hill drops away and you get an unobstructed view of the dramatic limestone cliff of the Hohe Wand (literally 'high wall'), which is a sharp fault forming the northern boundary of the Vienna basin. A real shame this magical castle isn't officially open to the public, though with the size of the ruin the costs to make it tourist-friendly would undoubtedly be too large.

After the surprise castle we wandered on over the tops of the hills, accompanied mostly by rank upon rank of the particular species of fir tree that grows everywhere around Vienna in this sort of environment. These firs have beautiful bark on their bare trunks, a silvery sheen and with hints of purple mixed in with the brown. A whole forest of them quickly becomes a strange wall of tree trunks striping away seemingly to infinity. After finding one more viewpoint over the Hohe Wand we turned down towards our destination, Bad Fischau, me half wishing for a cooling thunderstorm that never came. There are a number of caves around the town, although we missed one (hidden somewhere in the undergrowth) and the other is apparently very impressive if you go on a caving tour, but has a tiny unimpressive entrance. No matter, a nice relaxing hike with great views, a perfect choice for repeating in winter too!

As usual, if you click on the link you will get to see the full photo gallery...

And also as usual: bis bald!

Der Tom

Crossing the Rax

Today's blog and photos recount a hike across the Rax Plateau that I did a while ago now, near the beginning of July. I was staring at my very mistreated map of the Rax-Schneeberg region wondering what hike I could plan that would be a bit more novel, not just a repeat of the (don't get me wrong, beautiful) hikes I had done before. Summer hikes are great of course, but they can really start to blend together in the head without the aid of new terrain. Summer weather is pleasant but just lacks the changeable nature to really put a unique stamp on each different hike by itself.

I resigned myself to taking the train at the ungodly hour of 7.15 am, as this opens up the whole of the area to access by bus. In the end I decided to start from the tiny hamlet of Hinternasswald right on the southwest side of the Rax, the furthest the bus goes up that particular valley. As I and my intrepid companions who had agreed to come with me despite hearing how many vertical meters were involved (1300) climbed out of the bus around 9.30 am, it was already hot. We were looking forward to avoiding another 38 degree day in Vienna in the cool mountains, but when it's that hot, mountains can only do so much.

The route zigzagged up the back of the Schneealpe before joining the Nasskamm, the fantastic ridge joining Schneealpe to the Rax. I had been thinking of making the climb up to Rax from this ridge ever since we descended from the Schneealpe over it in November last year. The stunning views were tempered a little by the unrelenting sun, and things only got more intense as we set off after lunch up the steepest and rockiest section, a semi-Klettersteig or scramble through some incredible limestone scenery on the steep flank of the Rax plateau. Climbing doggedly in full sun on the south face of the mountain, surrounded by bright reflecting limestone, we sweated and cursed our way up to the top. The rest of the hike was easy and pleasant, the scenery unfolding into wide vistas across the plateau and ending with the pleasantly graded descent to Preiner Gscheid, where we were lucky enough to get a hitch to the station just in time for the (air conditioned!) train. Would have been even more pleasant if we hadn't all been half baked by that point, of course!

All in all a great route, but I wouldn't do 1300m up and 1000m down in the middle of a heatwave again, it was over 25 degrees even up at the highest point, 2007m. I am certainly not ruling out an autumn repeat of this one to get the most out of all the views! Please enjoy the photos from the comfort of your probably much cooler homes!

Bis bald,

der Tom

An actual holiday: the Czech Republic

Although I am on permanent holiday in Vienna, it turns out that I am still able to take regular holidays! Actually, I haven't taken a regular holiday where I visit somewhere that isn't the UK for a non-job related purpose in probably over a year, such is the nature of PhD student and ex-pat life. So it was good for me that my good friend Manu was even more in need of a holiday and recommended a trip to the Czech republic. I was very excited, as I have always wanted to see more of the embarrasingly nearby Czech Republic than just Prague.

Manu's tip was that we head to the town of České Budějovice, in the South of the Czech republic and due north of Linz about two hours on a very sleepy slow train, which we later discovered pretty much exactly followed the route of the early 19th century horse drawn railway that connected Linz and
České Budějovice. The town has another name in German, Budweis, and this may give a clue to the major thing that it is famous for outside the Czech Republic, namley its position as the home of (and only production site of) the world renowned Budweiser Budvar beer. It goes without saying that we did the tour, Manu even managing to heroically drag back 40 bottles of the Czech-only budweiser brew in his vast suitcase.

České Budějovice has a beautiful and very peaceful old town absolutely littered with very old and slightly wonky buildings, centred around a vast and very impressive main square, whose highlight is the rather over-the-top town hall with big metal dragon heads protruding from it. Overlooking it all is a large medieval tower providing an excellent view out towards the hills beyond and over the river Vltava (which will later flow through Prague) and the smaller tributary that joins it in Budějovice. My main impression of the place was that it was one of those quiet, beautiful central european towns with abundant parks and enough room for everyone to have a very nice life, though I am sure there are plenty of inhabitants who would still want to swap it for London :-)

The coolest building in town was in my opinion the Dominican Monastery, a gorgeous gothic church with baroque flourishes, filled to the brim with medieval wall paintings incuding an almost TEN METER HIGH wall painting of St Christopher from around 1450 (apparently he was often depicted as a giant?!). In the nearby village of Hluboká we saw a building that, while not as reserved, was the only thing that topped the monastery, using brute sheer architectural exuberance. The castle, home for many years to the rich and powerful Schwarzenberg family (who had a knack for winning battles of europe wide importance against enemies like the Turks and Napoleon), is currently in its third or fourth incarnation: a mock tudor-style castle modelled after Windsor Castle. The outside is stunning enough, but the insanely complex carved wood panelling and almost casual assortment of vastly expensive objects really blew me away.

Our final day and a night were spent in the nearby (and pretty famous) Český Krumlov, all winding medieval streets, piles of tourists and an impossibly fairytale castle looming high on a cliff over the rest of the small town. We were lucky to have accidentally arrived during a middle ages festival, and proceeded to eat big lumps of grilled pig (I ate so much pig fat on this holiday) and drink rather a lot of Budweiser. Our very successful party evening brought us medieval electric guitar solos, drinking companions from Britain, Canada and the Czech Republic, a firelit procession of medievally clad locals, and a lot of fun! Our journey back to Vienna the next day was subdued but satisfied...

Catch the bumper 16-photo album of what I did on my holidays right at the link!

Bis bald, 

Der Tom

Hohe Veitsch Hike

Among young Vienna based hikers, one object is highly prized: the car. Given the advantages of bikes and public transport for everday transport around the city, most of us city dwellers, especially the non-natives, do not own one. However, it is in the nature of mountainous regions that they are never perfectly accessible by public transport, and the rare offer of someone with a car opens up exciting possibilities beyond the everyday.

This blogpost reports on one such car-assisted trip to a peak I had not climbed until now. There is a whole chain of biggish mountains heading West from the Schneeberg and the Rax, made of the same tough limestone as those two peaks/plateaus. I had visited all of the major limestone mountains in this row between Schneeberg and the Hochschwab but one, the Hohe Veitsch (between the Hochschwab and the Schneealpe, much closer to the latter). We set off on a beautiful sunny summer morning in June.

After a much-more-rapid-than-the-train journey it was time to hike. Starting off in shady forest we crossed occasional hot stretches of felled trees before reaching a gorgeous flowery meadow with isolated trees. The flowers were definitely the theme of this hike, we seemed to have hit exactly the right time and from that point onward the mountain was always colourful. Skirting the edge of a large ridge to avoid going over it, we climbed a steep saddle and easily made it up to the small summit plateau of the Hohe Veitsch. Sweeping grassland with flowers gives way to distant views of the other limeston peaks in the region, and I had great fun at lunch mentally ticking off all the ones I had been on! Especially nice was the view of the whole Hochschwab massif, which I really love to walk in but have never seen a good overview of from a distance before now. The domed head of the Hochschab itself was prominent, as were the snowfields collected in the nooks and crannies of the 2000m high plateau.

We started back down, thinking to get back to Vienna nice and early. A navigating error led us to miss a hairpin bend and continue heading straight, towards the ridge we had skirted earlier. From the back of the group I was pretty sure this wasn't the way we had planned, but quite honestly, I had been eyeing the ridge enviously all day. We reached it, and agreed to take the high road back to the car. This was absolutely the highlight of the walk, scrambling along the very top of the rocky limestone ridge with fantastic views to each side, and the whole place festooned with alpine flowers and almost no other hikers in sight. A brilliant wrong turn! The walk down to the parking place was more direct than the way there and we made it back for a quick icecream in the hut there, later but also happier than planned!

The photos attempting to capture the magical flowers and views can be located by clicking your manual interface device on this text! Hope you enjoy them and maybe it will inspire you to go outside!

Bis Bald,
der Tom

PS the ridge is called der Wildkamm if anyone wants to check it out themselves!

Perchtoldsdorfer Heide take 2

Hallo! I was away being other places and doing some science for the last couple of weeks, which meant the week or so before was full of preparations for those goings-away. All in all, little time for writing on the internet, but, due to the going away, new photos have been generated! Before that though are a backlog of things from late May and early June.

After enjoying the beautiful view from the Kammersteiner Huette lookout tower and the grasslands of the Perchtoldsdorfer Heide (which are part of the previous blogpost on this site) I knew I had to share the magic with my trusty companion Ash. The Aussichtsturm really isn't all that far from the edge of Vienna so can be reached with public transport for a nice 1 -2 hour stroll in the woods. The summer months also mean you can start the walk pretty late, which is a nice bonus.

On the weekend afternoon I chose to show Ash the route we had gorgeous sunshine, and the Heide was looking very nice, and also very Chiltern-like, as befitting its status as grazed land on limestone... There were a whole bunch of grazing sheep in small temporary fenced enclosures. These sheep were doing a great job of mowing the lawn, chomping down the grass rather noisily. Not once did any of them bother to lift their head for a good photo! The view from the Turm was as dramatic as before, though the photo conditions weren't perfect due to the bright sunlight. Thus I had more time just to sit and soak in the vista, which was improved by a view of the Schneeberg 50 + km away as the air was much clearer than on my first visit.

After some absolutely delicious Eierspaetzle (that's just eggy Spaetzle to you but these were done perfectly) at the hut we headed on back down to the Heide to admire once again the grassland plants and beautiful flowers. A short but sweet afternoon out! Here's the customary link to the full album.

Bis bald,

Der Tom.

Filling in the gaps

This week on the blog, photos from another lazy spring hike! Although I have owned my trusty round Vienna hiking guide for over three years, I still haven't been to every place listed in it. Some of that is public transport related, but the rest is a combination of lack of imagination and not quite being able to connect the maps in the book to their location in the wider world. I realised recently that a section of the Wienerwald southwest of Vienna but behind the leading edge of hills bordering the Vienna basin had been left out of my hike planning, despite requiring only a bus from the edge of the city to get to!

Thus it was that the village of Sittendorf became the start point for the hike depicted here. The walk was a beautiful one, taking in all kinds of classic Wienerwald scenery like meadows, beech woods, and views of the ranks upon ranks of hills in the Wienerwald and Alps proper beyond. Especially wonderful were the flowering wild garlic plants, whose white flowers carpeted the forest completely in a manner similar to bluebells in the UK.

Perhaps by chance and perhaps due to its location relatively near Vienna, this walk passed 6 or more (!!) Gasthaeuse and two separate lookout towers. The second of these (by the Kammersteinerhuette) was particularly brilliant, the skeletal metal construction affording fantastic views from over 500m up, taking in the Lainzer Tiergarten, Vienna, the Hoher Lindkogel, the Anninger, Bad Voeslau, and many other past hiking haunts. The tower pokes out through the canopy and the hummocky nature of the surrounding limestone Wienerwald gives the view a dramatic quality that put me in mind of a very rough sea. The lowering darkness of a raincloud directly above the tower combined with the brisk wind and the sunshine from the further hills to create a magical view that I spent probably about half an hour gazing at, while everyone else went to look for cake and drinks in the hut...

All in all a lovely route, made all the better by ending at the boundary of Vienna, so you can just hop into the tram number 60 and be on your way home! The final part of the hike led us over the former grazing meadow of the Perchtoldsdorfer Haide, the scrubby grassland of which is more reminiscent of the chilterns than Austria and which provided the perfect place to sit around in the sun instead of going straight home.

Hope you enjoy the photos, the gallery is right here!

Bis bald,
Der Tom

Moedling to Baden: the Wasserleitungsweg in the sun

Look, it's not always sunny in Austria. But frankly it is sunny often enough that it sometimes feels that way to me. One of the most enjoyable things about spring in a country with a summer is that every beautiful day can be taken as a promise of more to come, not just a teaser for something that will never actually come to pass. Of course, one can see it that way however many sunny days one expects in the next several months, but in Britain, let's face it, we don't. In fact, often every sunny day is taken as an opportunity to complain about how it is never sunny! I was once told that there is a Swedish word/phrase for 'feeling sad in early Summer because you are reminded it will all too soon be over', which just goes to show that it isn't just the British who aren't very good at the whole positive outlook thing.

Anyway, todays photos are from a very leisurely hike purposefully designed to be inclusive to all (me as well after a night of dancing) by starting after 11am and avoiding any big hills. It was a fantastic and very warm spring day, with temperatures over 20 degrees. Due to aformentioned leisureliness and the fact that big high mountains do still actually have snow on them, this walk was along the local branch of the Wiener Wasserleitungsweg. Despite a lovely walk between Gumpoldskirchen and Moedling at sunset a couple of summers ago, I realised I had never actually gone further than Gumpoldskirchen, and made that the goal for the day (along with wine and food consumption, this is a VERY good walk for that as there are many many small wine stands along the way).

The whole walk takes place in vineyards on the slopes at the edge of the Vienna basin, offering sweeping views, misty ranks of hills, and the ever-present dramatic flourish of row upon row of vines receding into the distance. These factors combine together to give a great impression of perspective in the landscape, which nicely carries through into photos and makes it a pretty easy place to get some nice shots, especially with the addition of picturesque architecture and fruit trees loaded down with blossom. On our way we also saw a whole bunch of hunting kestrels and heard a cuckoo! Welcome, Spring.

Hope you enjoy the pictures, you will find them here.

Bis bald,

Der Tom