Schneeberg from Weichtalhaus, with goats

Autumn is my favourite time of year in Austria, and one of the biggest reasons is that it is the perfect season for hiking. Although you can't predict the best days, Autumn always delivers some perfect hiking weather: not too hot, not too cold, with the added magic of low lying mists, mellow afternoon light, and the icing on the cake: the turning leaves. I knew I wanted to the make the most of the best hiking season, and so planned this demanding hike, 1500 metres of climb up the steep south side of the Schneeberg (never before climbed by me!), and then down the rocky Fadensteig. Luckily I found two companions willing to take on the challenge, and (far too) bright and early we got off the bus at Weichtalhaus to begin the ascent.

The first part of the climb was winding switchbacks through leafy forest. Sticking to a slow and steady pace that would pay dividends throughout the hike, we made it up half the total ascent exactly on time, emerging into the bright morning sunshine for a brief rest stop at a hut. The views got better and better as we climbed higher, giving us a hazy panorama over the looming Rax plateau, including my first ever look into the dramatically steep-walled 'grosse' Hoellental from a cross-valley vantage point. The trees gave way to bushes and long grass as we took lunch with the already impressive view in front of us and the final ascent at our backs.

The wind atop the Schneeberg was much fiercer than lower down, howling around us as we zigged, zagged and zigged again up the steep grass and rock slope. We arrived at the summit at just the right time (the 'true', 2076m summit of the Schneeberg, another first for me!). The peak was at that moment situated in a large gap in the cloud cover, the ceiling of which was just slightly below the height of the peak. The tops of the far off cloud banks were just visible, even while the receding ranks of hills remained visible below the cloud layer. The most exciting moment was when, turning southwards into the full force of the wind, I spotted a cloud that was getting ready to engulf the summit. Standing there at exactly the same level as the advancing cloud glowing backlit from the sun was an amazing feeling, as if this huge but delicately patterned wall was bearing down on us and all we had to do was to reach out...

Distracted by the beauty of nature, I almost missed the two hiking goats that appeared on the summit moments after us! While their humans took summit photos, the two goats stood unconcerned on the broad path, kitted out with balanced matching saddle bags and handsome bells. The hiking pack-goats and their human companions followed us on our descent, accompanying us with their musical tinkling. After they overtook us and left the path, we threaded our way down the Fadensteig, the yellowing afternoon light lending the flanks of the Schneeberg extra texture and colour. After the Steig we were weary, and took full advantage of the existence of a precarious-looking but functional chairlift to shave the final 300m descent off our journey, thus making it to the bus stop just in time for our ride home.

One of the hikes of the year, no doubt! If you want to experience glowing cloud walls and hiking goats at larger size, don't hesitate to click onwards to the full gallery!

Bis bald,

der Tom.